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I know a bit of Astro (my site: mrcheesie.github.io/alris_games/ ) but everyone here seems to love PHP. Should I learn it? Kinda skeptical after the.. well php2shell thing.

You can love both! I’m a long time php fan and I’ve been using Astro A LOT over the past couple years…depends what you want to build. Give it a shot and see how you feel about it

This is... I've never really made a backend before. Where do I start? Any good projects?

Thing is*

A lot of people start with simple todo apps (you can get a good feel for the complete CRUD workflow that way). Brad Traversy has a lot of good videos on YouTube that go through the whole process of building apps like this (his laravel videos in particular really helped me out)